How to Install Furring Strips on Concrete Ceiling?
Furrng Strip Installation Guide
Can You Glue Furring Strips To Basement Walls?
The question whether you can glue furring strips to basement walls is a common one among homeowners. There are many opinions on this matter.
Some say that it’s not possible because of the thickness of the material. Others claim that they can’t do it at all due to the fact that there aren’t enough nails or screws available in their home. Still others say that they have tried and failed miserably before trying again with success now.
There are two types of furring strips; liquid nails and solid nails. Liquid nails are used when you want to create a patterned surface like stripes or other patterns.
They’re very easy to apply but require some skill to make them look good. Solid nails are used for attaching wallpaper or flooring. They’re much harder to work with than liquid nails and take more time and effort to achieve a professional looking result.
So let’s get to it. The first thing you need is a regular tube of liquid nails or equivalent.
You also should have some regular old wallpaper scrapers, a hammer, and a utility knife with replacement blades.
First you need to put up your furring strips. This part is pretty self explanatory so I’m not going to spend a lot of time on it.
Just make sure that when you’re nailing them in place that they’re straight and evenly spaced. After all of the strips are in place then you need to start putting up your drywall. This part is also pretty straight forward but there are a few things that you need to keep an eye out for. First of all is making sure the furring strips are firmly attached to the wall. After you’ve nailed each one in place make sure to hit them a couple more times with the hammer. This will make sure that they stay in place and don’t come loose over time.
After you’ve gotten a few rows of drywall up you need to start paying attention to the corners. The easiest way is to cut your drywall so that you have nice right angles.
The corners should be at a perfect ninety degree angle, if they aren’t then you need to adjust them before putting on the finishing coats of joint compound. The next thing you need to do is tape your seams. This is probably the most important step because if you don’t do it right then everything else is going to look terrible.
The next thing you need to do is cover your seams with joint compound. Start with the taping and once you’ve finished that, then you can move on to the second coat.
Once the joint compound has dried to a leathery consistency then you can sand it so that it’s nice and smooth. I usually do this part by hand using a sanding block, but sometimes I’ve been know to use an electric sander. Once you’ve done that then you can move on to the next step which is applying your primer and paint.
As you may have already noticed, painting your drywall is a bit different than painting regular walls. The first thing you need to do is tape everything that you don’t want painted.
This is probably going to be the most time consuming part of the entire process. After you’ve finished taping then you can start painting. If you’re using oil-based paints like I am then you need to make sure you have enough ventilation. The last thing you need is to breathe in a bunch of toxins while you work. It’d probably be a good idea to wear a respirator as well. Once everything is dry then all you need to do is remove the tape and touch up anything you might have smudged.
Once everything is completely dry, you’re done! Congratulations!
If there are any mistakes that you don’t like then you can always sand the area down and start over. Pretty soon you’ll have a room that’s worthy of being called home!
(No prize, but now you have a fully functioning home!)
Well, I think that just about covers everything you need to know in order to build your own underground fortress! I’m sure that between your natural skill and my handy tips, you’ll be able to build one that’s suitable in no time at all!
Good luck my young apprentice!
Sources & references used in this article:
- Furring strips and channels and connecting structure (M Jack – US Patent 2,448,109, 1948 – Google Patents)
- Composite soffit of plastic material and furring strips (RW Bear – US Patent 4,584,807, 1986 – Google Patents)
- Process for reinsulating concrete block homes (G L’heureux – US Patent 4,191,001, 1980 – Google Patents)
- External wall panel and mounting structure thereof (M Saito – US Patent 5,239,798, 1993 – Google Patents)
- Vented furring strip (RJ Morris, D Sheldon – US Patent 6,938,383, 2005 – Google Patents)
- Vented furring strip (RJ Morris, D Sheldon – US Patent 7,117,649, 2006 – Google Patents)
- External wall panel and mounting structure thereof (M Saito – US Patent 5,379,561, 1995 – Google Patents)