Window Sill Capting Cost: Window Sill Capping Costs
The first thing you need to consider when it comes to window capping is how much will it cost? You might think that with all the DIY projects out there, you could easily afford to hire a professional to cap your windows. However, if you’re not careful, hiring someone else’s labor may result in having them take away your work due to some sort of dispute or other issue.
On the other hand, if you decide to go with a professional, they’ll probably charge you more than just the cost of their time. So which one is better? Let’s see…
If you’re going to hire a professional, then you have to pay for them. That means either paying them directly or paying for them through your contractor.
If you choose to use a contractor, then you’ll have to pay for them as well. They’ll likely want to get paid upfront so they can start working right away.
In most cases, the window capping job will cost between $150-$300 depending on whether or not you go with a professional or DIY approach. While it might seem like a small amount of money, it adds up over time.
If you want to save money, then you might choose to hire a contractor yourself. They won’t necessarily be able to cap your windows at a lower price since they don’t have access to the same materials as a professional. Also, they’ll probably have less experience and skill than a professional would have. So if you’re going DIY, it’s best to get someone who already does it professionally.
You should always shop around to get the best price for your service. This is why it’s a good idea to compare different services on their price.
You should get at least three different prices from trusted sources before making a decision on who to hire. You might also consider using a construction calculator to get an estimate of the job you need done.
When it comes to capping windows, you’re going to have a certain amount that will be right for the job. For example, if you’re doing a lot of large windows, then you’re going to need more caulk and putty than if you were only working on a couple.
However, you’ll want to make sure that you have enough materials so that you don’t have to make another trip to the store in the middle of your project. This is why most people will buy more than what they think they need. It also helps to have someone else there to help you spread the material evenly across all of the windows
If you’re planning on doing this yourself, it’s best to get someone else to help. Not only will it be easier to spread the caulk, but it will also be easier to lift the tubes into place.
Even if you’re in decent shape, lifting anything over 25 pounds for an extended period can be dangerous because it causes stress on your back.
Once you’ve got all the caulk spread out evenly across the window, it’s time to start pressing it into place. You should have someone help you with this as well.
It’s a two person job because one of you needs to hold up the tube while the other presses it into place. After a few minutes of doing this, your arms are going to get pretty tired. This is another reason why having someone else there to help will be good for you.
Now comes the hard part, you and your helper need to take a putty knife (which you should’ve bought or borrowed) and scrape off all of the excess caulk/putty from the edges. The trick is to scrape it so that it’s even with the window frame.
If you try to do this part by yourself, you might end up putting too much or too little on the edges. It might also be a good idea to use a carpenter’s square when you do this part. This will help you make sure the corners of the window are at right angles.
In order to get the straight lines that you want, it’s best to use a t-square or yardstick to guide you as you pull the putty knife across the edges. Don’t forget to also scrape off the extra caulk/putty from the top and bottom of the window as well.
Once you’ve got the excess material off the edges of the window, you can then use a rag or sponge to wipe off the excess material from the rest of the window. Make sure you get it all off, otherwise it might end up dripping down when it’s pressed against the window frame later.
Also, make sure that you get it off the edges as well since this is where it’s most likely to show through. You should’ve done a “test run” on scrap wood to make sure that you had enough putty/caulk and that you got it off cleanly. Don’t forget, patience is virtue!
The next step is to use wood glue. Most people will want to buy or borrow a tube of glue for this project.
If you’ve got someone helping you with this part, it’s best if one person holds the piece of wood in place (along with the pieces on either side) while the other person uses a paint brush or rag to spread the glue evenly across all parts that will be touching. If you’re doing this part alone, you might need to get someone to hold the pieces in place and then spread the glue while you go find something else to do (or hold the pieces in place once the glue has been spread).
Remember, you want a very thin layer of glue. Otherwise, it could drip down and cause a mess.
It’s also a good idea to set aside a portion of the project just for the glue. This way, you won’t have to worry about the glue drying before you get a chance to place the board in place. If it does happen to dry before you’re ready to place it, you can always put it in a Ziploc bag (with as little air in it as possible) with a damp paper towel in it. This will keep the glue from drying out.
The best tool to spread glue with is a paintbrush or a rag. Some people will use the tip of their finger, but this is very messy and not recommended.
If you don’t mind getting glue under your nails, then go right ahead.
Once the glue has dried, you can place the board in place. Make sure it’s flush with the other boards surrounding it (or at least as close as you can get it) and nail it in place using a nail gun or regular hammer and nails.
To get the straightest, cleanest job, you can have someone hold the board in place for you while you nail it. This also helps make sure that your spacing is even and that you don’t miss any spots.
If you’re doing this part yourself, make sure you use a carpenter’s square to keep the boards lined up as best you can.
Now the frame should be ready for the window. You should already have the proper window prepared for installation.
If you haven’t done this yet, now would be the time to do it.
Before you begin the task of installing your new window, take a look at the wall surrounding it. Is the wood in good condition or is it rotten and about to fall down? You’ll need to fix anything that might be a potential hazard before installing the window.
Once again, you may need help from a friend for this part. (Or hire someone to help you if you’re not sure how to do it yourself).
If you’re replacing an existing window, remove the old one (unless it’s a door). If this is a new build or addition, make sure that there is proper ventilation already in place.
Depending on your region and local building codes, this may be required.
Now that the wall is ready, you can begin installing the window. The first thing you need to do is plumb the opening.
This means that you’ll need to make sure that the opening is level and square (at right angles) with the surrounding walls or floor.
You may need to have a friend help you with this step. Again, if you’re working along and don’t feel comfortable with doing this yourself, you may want to hire a friend to help.
If that’s not an option, the next best thing would be to purchase a book on framing and read up on the subject ahead of time.
The next thing you have to do is create a so-called “rough opening”. This is the opening where the window or door will go.
This needs to be at least as wide as the window or door you are installing, but the wider the better. This is especially true if you’re working with a smaller window and not one of the huge ones that you can find in some old houses. By creating a wider opening, it gives you more space to work with and makes the installation go more smoothly.
Making this wider opening requires that you first remove some wood from the jambs (the framing around the window opening). To do this, you must first drill out the nails holding the boards in place.
There should be at least two or three boards holding each jamb in place.
Once the boards are loose, you need to chisel out the wood grain in the selected area to make it easier for you to pull out the nails. Then you need to remove the nails and the boards that are holding the jamb in place.
This is a very time-consuming process. You’ll need to take your time and do this slowly and carefully.
You don’t want to rush this and hurt yourself in the process.
When you have it out, you need to check the jambs to make sure they are still strong and not rotted through. Then you can begin making adjustments as needed (such as adding framing or bracing) before installing the new window.
The whole point of this exercise is to create a wider opening for your window.
After that is done, you can begin installing your window. Most windows have four pieces (two vertical and two horizontal “sashes” or frames).
Before you begin the process of installing this, make sure that the opening is wide enough to accommodate all four pieces. You don’t want to go through all the work of removing wood and then find out that it won’t fit after all.
Also, before installing the window itself, you may need to put in nails or screws to secure the frame to the wall studs. (You don’t want this thing falling out and hitting someone on the head).
With the new window installed, you need to caulk and putty all of the gaps around it. This keeps bugs and weather out and keeps warm air in (and vice versa).
Once this is done, you can begin installing the trim. This involves cutting pieces to fit around the window itself and then installing them with finishing nails (and wood glue to help hold it in place).
You then need to install the molding. The molding goes along the base of the wall and usually has a rounded over edge to create a smooth transition from floor to wall.
Finally, you can sand and paint the new window casing before installing your new window.
There you have it, a step-by-step process to installing a window.
The thing you want to avoid is cutting corners and doing something that is going to cause problems in the future. This can mean several things:
Don’t make the opening wider than necessary. You just create more work (and expense) for yourself if you do this.
Don’t leave gaps or openings between the new window and the wall around it. Gaps will let in cold air and bugs.
In addition, the wood framing that you just had to add because of the wider opening may not be able to handle the stress put on it if there are openings around it.
Don’t use a cheaper vinyl replacement window. While these may seem like a bargain (and often are), they are often made of thinner material that won’t stand up as well over time.
With these, you often get what you pay for!
Don’t try to do this on your own. While you may be able to handle the labor involved, the safety issues involved in this project are very real and very serious if not dealt with correctly.
It is often best to have a professional do this anyway: They know what they are doing, they have the experience and the tools to do it and they know how to do it safely.
Don’t try to cut corners or do the job half-. If you are going to do it, do it right and don’t take short cuts.
When done correctly, installing a window can greatly increase the value of your home and give it charm and character that is often lacking in newer homes. Installing a window can also be a fun project that you can do yourself with some planning and preparation.
Good luck and happy home improvement.
Sources & references used in this article:
- Drainage system and method of draining extruded window frame sills (R Dallaire, D Dallaire – US Patent 5,123,212, 1992 – Google Patents)
- Window sill cover (DE Wilcox – US Patent 6,457,287, 2002 – Google Patents)
- Draining door sill assembly with adjustable threshold cap (JC Headrick – US Patent 5,136,814, 1992 – Google Patents)
- Window sill cover (DE Wilcox – US Patent 6,360,500, 2002 – Google Patents)
- Variable size door and window sill pan with drain (M Teodorovich – US Patent 8,443,554, 2013 – Google Patents)
- Universal fenestration cap system and method (J Alvarado – US Patent 8,024,898, 2011 – Google Patents)
- Door and window sill pan flashing with extension coupler (M Teodorovich – US Patent 8,695,293, 2014 – Google Patents)