How do you cut a 22.5 degree angle?

How to Cut a 22.5 Degree Angle Template on Crown Molding

The following are some of the most common questions that we get asked when it comes to how do you cut a 22.5 degree angle on crown molding: How to cut a 22.5 degree angle? What type of templates do I need? Which tool do I use? Can I just buy one of these tools or will I have to make my own? Is there any way to cut a 22.5 degree angle without using a template? These are some of the most commonly asked questions by our customers. So, if you’re looking for answers to your specific question then read on!

What Type of Templates Do You Need?

There are two types of templates that you’ll need to create a crown molding template: A straight edge and a circular saw blade. Both types will work well for creating the crown molding template.

A Straight Edge Template

A straight edge template is used to mark out the centerline of the crown molding. If you don’t have a ruler handy, you can draw a line around the outside edges of your piece of wood. Then, take a pencil and trace those lines onto your piece of wood. Once you’ve drawn them out, cut along those lines until they meet up with each other at the top and bottom corners. There’s no right or wrong choice here; both will work fine.

A Straight Edge Template

If you’re going to be working with a straight edge, then a template is not necessary since you can draw out the shape yourself. However, if you plan on cutting the template out later (for example after sanding), then a template would be helpful because it allows you to see exactly where to place each line of wood so that they don’t overlap and cause problems later.

A Circular Saw Blade Template

If you’re going to be working with a circular saw blade, then you’ll need to get the circular saw blade itself (duh). But, you’ll also need to make sure that the crown molding and the saw blade are the same size. If your crown molding is 1/2″ thick, then you’re going to need to get a 1/2″ thick circular saw blade so that they match up properly.

A Circular Saw Blade Template

This type of template is used to cut out the inside of the molding. Measure the diameter of your saw blade (or whatever size it is). Use a pair of calipers to find this out. Then, take a piece of newspaper and roll it into a tight circle. Now wrap your tape measure around it and use those measurements to see what size that comes out to be (in diameter).

Now you’ll need to do a little math to scale that size down to the size of your saw blade. Draw a circle on the newspaper that is the same size as your saw blade (again, use your calipers if necessary). Now take an X-ACTO knife and cut out that circle. Then, tape it onto your piece of wood. Hold it in place and make a line around the inside edge of it (with your pencil). That will give you the shape of your crown molding.

No Circular Saw Template

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This type of template is used to mark out the inside corners of the crown molding. Lay your piece of wood on a flat surface (like a table) and pencil in lines that are parallel to the edges of the wood (so that they’re lying flat against the table). Place your circular saw blade on top of that line and trace around it with your pencil. Now draw a second line directly on top of that and trace around it with your pencil. Now, connect the ends of the lines to form a large “L” shape.

When you pick up that piece of wood and place it on the ceiling, you’ll know exactly where to nail or screw it into place.

How Do I Attach the Template?

If you’re using a straight edge, then you can just tape it down to the wood and use an X-ACTO knife to trace around the edges. If you’re using a circular saw blade, then things get a little more complicated (but not much).

Before you start cutting, take your piece of crown molding and line it up against your tracing. Press the bottom edge of the crown molding into place (where the pencil lines end). Hold it in place and take your pencil and draw a light line across the top of the wood. This will show you where to cut.

Now, take your circular saw blade (or jigsaw blade) and place it on that top line. Hold the crown molding in place against the table (or your body). Make sure that it’s lined up evenly with the pencil line and keep that blade pressed up against the wood. Now run the saw along that pencil line and cut through the wood.

NOTE: Do not attempt to run the saw backwards (this includes using a drill). Backing the blade out could cause an accident and cut you badly. Leaving the blade in there while you’re cutting would cause it to bind up and launch itself at you when you go to start running it. You don’t want this to happen, so take out any blades and keep them out until they’re needed again.

After you’ve cut out the circle, take a flat head screwdriver and scrape off the pencil lines (being careful not to dig into the wood too much). Now you’re ready to start nailing it in place.

Nailing the Crown Molding

The best way to do this is to put a dab of paint right on the back corner of the molding. This will make it much easier to nail it into place.

Now, find the two walls that you need to connect. The first wall should already have your straight piece attached to it. For the second wall, measure out how far apart your two outside edges are (they should be directly across from each other, but not right on top of each other). Hold the new piece up to that wall and mark the location of the outside edges on the wall. Now find a stud in the wall and nail the molding into place.

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You’ll need to do this for every corner of your room, but it will go faster each time since you won’t have to measure the molding as much.

Once you’ve finished up the corners, you just need to fill in the blank spots between your straight pieces of molding and your corners. To do this, just measure out how far apart your two outside edges are and place them on the wall (as you did with the second wall).

When you get to your corners, you’ll need to measure out the outside edges of the pieces and put them on the wall. They should line up directly with the straight pieces behind them.

The last step is to cut one last piece of molding (for the inside corner) and put it into place. Now you can nail it in place like the other two pieces.

When you secure the molding in place, make sure it’s tight up against the piece you just put up. If it’s loose and you leave a gap, then your corner will be ruined and you’ll only have yourself to blame (unless you have a friend that can help you out).

Congratulations, your first wall is finished! Check it out from all sides and make sure it looks straight and even. If it looks good, then you can move onto the next wall.

NOTE: Don’t forget to sand down any rough spots on your molding. Also, if you find any spots where you’ve made a mistake or need to fill in a hole, now’s the time to go back and fix it.

Grab your tape measure and head to the middle of your wall. Measure out exactly half way across and make a mark. This is the middle of your wall. Now measure over 1 foot 6 inches on either side of the middle (the middle of the wall is actually 17 feet, but we need to leave a little room for trim so 16 and a half feet will work just fine).

Starting at one end of the wall, hold up your straight piece in place. Using your level, make sure it’s going to be straight and centered on the wall. If it is, great! If it’s a little off, don’t sweat it. The molding is curved so it can be easily shaved down to fit.

Hold the molding in place and use your pencil to mark the wall where the nails will go in. Using your drill and a small bit, put a hole in the wall right where you marked it. Do this for all the studs in that piece of molding.

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Now it’s time to put the molding in place. Nail it into the wall where you made the holes. If it lines up perfect, then great! If not, no worries, you can easily shave down the edges of the molding with a saw to get a perfect fit.

Once you get all your molding lined up and nailed in place, it’s time to putty any nail holes and fill in any gaps with filler. Let the filler dry and then sand it down until it’s flush with the wall.

This will be much faster if you have a helper. Have one person holding the drill and the other person putting the nails in. This way you can work really fast and not lose any time (since you’re going to be doing this several hundred times).

Once all your molding is up, you’ll want to go back and touch up any spots that need it.

Now that you have all your molding up, it’s time to move onto the next wall. Go ahead and do this exact same thing until all your walls have the baseboards up.

Next week we’ll start working on finishing the floor and getting some furniture in here.

NOTE: Check in next week to see what you can do to make this place look homier!

~Christian

NOTE: You’re two months in and things are getting very real. It’s time to buckle down and start focusing all your energy into this. It’s also time for a big change in your living situation, so make sure you read next week’s entry before you do anything too permanent.

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