Pony Wall Design Ideas: How To Make A Sturdy Pony Wall?
The idea of building a pony wall shower is not new. People have been doing it for centuries. But there are many different types of ponies, which means that the design will vary greatly from one type to another. So, what makes a good pony wall design?
A stable pony wall is a strong foundation for your shower. It must be solid and stable enough so that water doesn’t leak out during use. There’s nothing more annoying than getting into a nice hot shower only to find that you’re standing in a puddle! Obviously, you will need some sort of framing to give the wall shape and form.
You can use a specific type of wood for this or you can use metal framing.
The best pony wall design is also durable and long-lasting while being easy to care for and strong enough to withstand everyday use.
There are many designs out there but most of them have some things in common. You can also use a combination of both. Depending on what your wall will be used for, you may want to reinforce the framing with cross pieces. Sturdy framing, durable wall panels and a waterproof surface are all needed for a quality design.
How Do You Make A Sturdy Pony Wall? If you’re building a freestanding wall, you’ll also need to make sure it is anchored to the floor and has some sort of brace to keep it from falling over.
When you’re building a pony wall, the first thing you need to do is lay out your plans. What do you want your finished product to look like? I suggest that you build your own wall, it will save you a lot of money and will look better in the long run.
You will need to make sure that you have all the necessary materials before beginning construction. This is especially important when it comes to the height and width of the wall. Once you’ve made up your mind about the size, you can start building the framing. If you’re using vinyl wall panels, purchase enough to cover your wall area.
Be sure to buy a high-quality adhesive rated for this purpose. Check the package for proper mixing instructions. You can use 2 x 4’s or something similar for the studs and then cover them with whatever material you decide on.
Take a level and plumb line to make sure the framing is straight before you start attaching the panels. If it isn’t, you’ll have to start from scratch. One item you may want to think about is installing some fiberglass insulation in the center of the wall. This will help keep the water from becoming icy cold in the winter or burning hot in the summer.
If you find a panel that doesn’t have the right dimensions, you can return it for an exchange or have it cut at a local shop.
If you’re using tile, I would suggest hiring a professional. Don’t forget to leave an access panel somewhere in the middle for easy repairs and maintenance. While the process isn’t rocket science, there is a certain way that it needs to be done for it to turn out right.
Patching and maintaining your pony wall should be relatively easy if you did it right the first time around. The most common problem tends to be leaking seams, which is fairly easy to repair. Don’t forget to leave yourself an entrance so you can get the panels on the other side. You don’t want to have to tear down your wall just so you can get at the pipes.
You may want to consider using waterproof silicone caulk for this task. Every now and then, you may also want to re-caulk the entire thing.
Your wall doesn’t have to be boring and plain. You can make it as decorative as you want although that might not be the best idea if you use it for swimming.
An alternate way to keep your wall from leaking is to place it above ground. The reason that most people put their pony walls underground is because it’s easy and convenient. If you plan to do that, you’ll want to use some sort of texture or even better, stick with smooth concrete blocks. They’re ready made so all you have to do is line them up and glue them together.
The first thing you need to do is find a spot that you can place your wall. If you’re not sure, consult a surveyor or someone that knows about building codes in your area. I would also check to see if there are any underground pipes or other potential obstacles that may interfere with your wall. You can normally Google something like “maps of utility lines in _________” and it’ll bring up a map that will show any known potential problems.
When you’ve found the location, draw a line where you want your wall to be. You will need to build that high enough so that it doesn’t interfere with the sprinkler system or other potential hazards. I would also place it slightly higher than the average flood zone. Once you have the height, you need to decide what kind of material to use.
Wood is cheap but requires regular maintenance and can be combustible. Depending on where you live, this may or may not be a concern. Concrete blocks are very sturdy but can crack and allow water in over time. Most homes that use this method simply place the wall slightly underground to avoid this problem.
Glued blocks are another option. They’re much cheaper and easier to work with but don’t hold up quite as well.
Finally, there are pre-cast panels. These can be bought already formed into a wall with a concrete center and resemble traditional walls. They hold up very well but tend to be expensive. You would again want to place these slightly underground.
You have several options for placing the pipes behind your wall. You can simply place them behind the wall and have the wall go up over them. This is the cheapest and easiest method although it’s possible for small pieces to crack off over time and clog your pipes. You can try to prevent this by using flexible piping but there is always a risk.
You can also place the pipes inside the wall. This is a bit more complicated but can save money if you’re using cheap piping. You will need to either drill holes through the wall for the pipes or cut a hole in it and place the piping inside then patch it up. You will also need to glue and reinforce the joints.
You can also do a hybrid method. Drill holes through the wall for most of the piping but have the main water supply pipe on the outside. You will still need to glue and reinforce the joints.
You’ll also need to put in a drain line for any water that makes it past your filters and the eventual runoff. This can be as simple as another pipe or more commonly done these days, a piece of perforated pipe that lets water seep into the ground around the foundation.
Your choice will depend on your budget and how good your soil is at absorbing water.
You spend some more time walking around, looking at the various options you have available. You see one of the staff walking around and you catch up with her to ask questions about some of the more complex things you’re considering.
You finally settle on a design. You want to put in a wall with several layers. The outer layer will be traditional concrete blocks with steel reinforcements. The next layer will be traditional bricks with steel reinforcements.
The inner layer will be a plastic composite.
The water pipes will be set into the wall in such a way that they’re protected on the inside of the wall, directly behind them will be a thick layer of concrete. On the outside of the wall will be the drain piping, behind a separate smaller wall that is placed a few inches inside the outer wall. This will keep running water close to the outside and furthest from any possible contamination. The drain will be piped into the sewage system.
The filter system will be on the inside of the wall between the outer and inner layer. It will be a series of pipes with filters in them that run from the outermost to the innermost. The system will be able to be taken apart easily for maintenance.
You place your order and once all the materials are there, you get started. You manage to buy a small house to use as temporary accommodation while you’re working. You even hire some locals with good work history who are looking for something more stable than the odd job as well as some unskilled labor. You plan to have everyone working on this full time until it’s finished.
You have a drill rig brought in and start making the holes for the pipes. It’s slow going but after a week you have all the holes ready.
Once all the holes are ready you start transporting the piping into place. You have a team spreading portland cement to the desired depth for your layers and another team bringing the pipes over and feeding them into the holes. There’s some back and forth to make sure the pipes are in the middle of the holes but generally it goes well.
Once all the pipes are in place you start on the concrete layers. You have a team spreading and tamping the layers while another team moves forward to spread and tamp the next layer. Again there’s some communication required between the two teams but overall it goes well.
Once all the layers are in place and cured you repeat the concreting process for each individual wall.
Then you put in the filters by drilling holes into the concrete, setting in 304 grade stainless steel rings and then screwing in 304 grade stainless steel bolts to hold them in place. They’re a tight fit so no concrete is needed and they’ll be easily removable for maintenance.
Once all the filters are in place you start on the drain system. You get a team to dig a trench from the wall to the sewage pipe and affix a pipe that will overhang the pipe. You have another team placing sheets of metal over the trench and then concrete to ‘bury’ the pipe.
Finally, you get a team to place the cover stones. These are limestone blocks that are exactly half a meter squared. You’ve drawn out the design with all the measurements for the team to place them evenly and securely.
Finally, you get the water pipes connected up. You have to employ a welder to make sure all the joints are safe and then get a team to pressure test everything. You even get them to test out every single filter to make sure there are no leaks or weaknesses.
Once everything is confirmed to your standards you give the all clear for water and get everyone else to safety before turning the water on. You leave it running for as long as you can to make sure there are no problems.
Once you’ve turned the water off you have some well earned rest after 2 solid weeks of work. You get back to the paperwork. You have to report all this to your superiors. This is where you find out just why you had a sudden influx of funding.
Your project has been designated a priority since it is considered vital to the war effort and you’ve been getting more attention from higher up because of it.
You receive a notification that a meeting has been scheduled with some…interesting people. The first of these is an official from the EPA to check everything and give the all clear.
The second is a woman from the Department of Health. The last one isn’t listed and you simply report to a man with a black folder.
The day finally arrives and you show them everything. You give them the tour and they ask all the right questions. Especially the man with the black folder.
Sources & references used in this article:
- Building frame construction tools and methods using laser alignment (RL Tribble, SE Moore, MA Walker – US Patent 8,209,874, 2012 – Google Patents)
- Degradation of plant cell walls and membranes by microbial enzymes (DF Bateman, HG Basham – Physiological plant pathology, 1976 – Springer)
- The Great Wall: China Against the World, 1000 BC–AD 2000 (J Lovell – 2007 – books.google.com)
- The role of pathogen-produced cell-wall-degrading enzymes in pathogenesis (IJ Misaghi – Physiology and Biochemistry of Plant-Pathogen …, 1982 – Springer)
- Engineering Solutions for Earthquakes (J Porterfield – 2019 – books.google.com)
- Handbook for Building and Repair of Stone Walls (K Horn – Finland: Novia University of Applied, 2013 – doc-developpement-durable.org)
- Potted: Make Your Own Stylish Garden Containers (S Ransford – 2007 – Pan Macmillan)