What is a carpenter’s square used for?

What Is A Carpenters Square Used For?

A carpenter’s square is a tool used to measure angles. It measures the angle between two straight lines. The carpenter’s square has been around since the Middle Ages and it was originally designed for building purposes.

Today, its main purpose is measuring angles in construction work such as roofing or wall coverings.

The carpenter’s square is made up of four sides which are joined together with a small point at one end. These points are called the “fingers”. The other three sides are known as the “points” and they have no fingers.

They measure different lengths from each other, but their length does not affect the measurement of any angle.

Types Of Carpenters’ Squares

There are many types of carpenter’s squares available today. Some are round while others are square. There is also a special type of carpenter’s square that has only six points instead of the usual eight.

These six-pointed carpenter’s squares are called “speed squares.” They make measurements faster because there is less time needed to move the hands around to reach all the numbers on them.

How To Use A Speed Square?

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To use a speed square, you need to mark out your measurements on paper first. Then, you put the pieces of wood into the center of the square and turn it over so that all four sides are facing you. You then take a pencil and draw lines across the paper until you reach your desired measurement.

Then, flip it back over and repeat this process until all four sides are marked out.

Carpenter’s square tools are divided into two types; framing carpenter’s squares and combination squares. Framing carpenter’s squares have a blade on one side and a tongue on the other. Tongue shapes are used to make longer measurements.

The combination style is used to make inside and outside measurements.

How To Use A Carpenters’ Square

A carpenter’s square is used to measure right angles in walls or beams.

The carpenter’s square is one of the most used and most versatile tools in a carpenter’s belt. It is reliable and durable enough to withstand years of regular use. Every carpenter should have at least one on them at all times.

How To Use A Try Square?

A try square is a type of carpenter’s square that has a handle. They are often used for marking wooden beams so that other pieces of wood can be attached to them. Carpenters sometimes use them for drawing straight lines if they do not have a chalk line on hand.

Try squares are very durable and can be used for years without breaking. In fact, many people who work in construction keep their old try squares around for scraping off old paint and tearing down drywall.

You can use a try square to measure angles easily. All you have to do is position the square so that one of its long edges is touching the side you want to measure. Then, sight along the other long edge until you can see if it’s touching the corner of the wall or other object you are measuring up to.

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Mark the spot where they meet with a pencil and then measure it using a tape measure.

You can also use your try square to check if a board is exactly at 90 degrees. Simply position the square so that one of its short edges is touching your board. If the long edge and the short edge are both touching your board, then it is at a perfect 90 degrees.

If you want to set your own wooden beam at exactly 90 degrees, all you have to do is position one of the square’s short edges against it and then the long one will automatically be at 90 degrees. You don’t need to measure anything because the short edge will already be at 90 degrees.

Unlike a usual carpenter’s square, you don’t need to mark any measurements on a try square because the handle comes in very handy for this purpose. Just grip the handle and turn the rule so that the number you want is at the top. Then, just position the short edge against your wooden beam and the long one will be at the measurement you wanted.

You can also use the try square’s handle to draw lines on a wooden beam very easily. All you have to do is hold the handle in one hand, position the square against the wooden beam, and then draw the handle along the beam.

Scribe tools are used to mark long straight lines. They look like carpenter’s squares except their edges aren’t razor sharp. They are made of a thin, flat piece of steel with a small groove down their center.

You drag the scribe tool forcefully down the wood consistently, making a dark line (which you can fill in later).

There are also mechanical pencils that use special scribing leads. These are useful if you need to mark very fine lines.

Try squares and scribe tools aren’t very expensive and are very useful for setting boards at 90 degrees.

The chalk line is a length of thin, strong string that is coated in a chalky material. You can secure one end of the string to a nail using a clamp or weight and then swing the other end of the string so that it draws a line in the air. When the chalk line falls to the ground, it leaves a white line that shows exactly where the opposite end of the string is tied to.

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This line is exactly where you need to position your boards or brick for maximum evenness and strength.

Chalk lines are very accurate and leave a nice, even line. They aren’t very expensive but they aren’t essential if you don’t want to spend the money.

A speed square looks like a carpenter’s square except half of its edge is flat and the other half has a curve in it (like a giant ruler). It is used for marking angles that aren’t exactly 90 degrees. You can use a speed square to mark bevels, which are very common in construction.

Bevels are simply angled edges that fit into one another. For instance, the corner of a door is a bevel.

When you put on a belt, you can see that it has angled edges that fit into one another. These angled edges are called tongues and they are held together by straight edges called cleats. The belt’s tongue and cleats form a bevel.

The purpose of a bevel is to allow two pieces to join tightly and securely without any overlap. You can also use bevels to mark the corners of brick.

If you didn’t have a speed square, you could draw a bevel by hand. All you’d have to do is imagine the corner of a door on your wooden board and then draw two curved lines that meet at a 90 degree angle.

If you want, you can use a pencil and a straight edge to draw an exact, classically-shaped bevel on your wood. It should be half of the size of the wood. So if your wood is 2 feet by 3 feet, your bevel can be 1 foot by 2 feet.

Then, you can use the speed square to draw a smaller, opposite bevel on your wood. You put the flat edge of the square against the edge of your wood and position it so that the curved edge aligns with one side of your drawn bevel. You can then draw a second bevel using the speed square.

The accuracy of this method can vary but you can easily erase your guidelines and redraw them if you don’t like the first result.

You’ll need to use a bevel when building your door frame. The corners of your door frame need to have square edges (90 degree angles) but the outer edges of the frame need to have angled edges (bevels).

I’ll explain later how to apply this technique to build your door frame. For now just focus on drawing the bevels accurately.

Draw your first bevel on the left side of your frame. Make sure that one edge of it aligns with the top edge of your board. Now, using your speed square, draw a smaller second bevel on the right side of your board so that one of its edges aligns with the bottom edge of your board and the other aligns with the top edge of your first bevel.

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This creates a “V” shaped point at the bottom right corner of your frame.

Now, draw another bevel on the bottom edge of your board so that its right edge aligns with the left edge of your first bevel and its bottom aligns with the top of your board. This creates an “L” shape at the bottom left corner of your frame.

Finally, you can draw a bevel on either side of your board. This will create 90 degree angles (right and left corners) at the top of your frame.

Here is a diagram:

Frame Corners

Your frame is starting to look more like a door frame! Now you just have to add some extra bevels to the inside edges of the frame. You can do this by drawing a series of equally-spaced vertical lines on the left, right, top, and bottom edges of your board.

These lines are all the same length. They are equal to one-quarter the width of your board. (If your board is 2 feet wide, then each line will be 1 foot long.)

The first bevel goes at the very top of the frame. The top edge of your frame should align with the top of the line and the outer edge should align with the outside of the left vertical guideline.

Now do the same thing on the right edge of your board. The outer edge of your right edge should align with the inner edge of the left vertical guideline. The bottom edge should align with the bottom line.

Now you can do the same thing on the left and right sides of the top line. These will be different lengths but they will still align with certain guidelines and edges of your board. Do this for all four sides of your door frame.

The vertical guidelines represent the vertical portion of your door frame. (The part that will be on the outside when you place it in a building.) The horizontal lines above and below the vertical guidelines are there to help you place the “vertical” portions of your door frame at an angle.

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When looking at your door from the front, the left side will be at the back and the right side will be at the front. This is called “skewing” and it is very helpful when building a door because it allows you to place the door so the bottom of the door (the part that opens) will be offset from the bottom edge of your wall.

Because this is not a true right angle door frame, there are some parts of it that won’t fit together perfectly. I’ll tell you what to do about that later. Don’t worry about it for now.

Keep this diagram in mind and let’s keep going.

Framing the Door

Before we begin framing your door, let’s talk a little more about the saw you are using. (I’m guessing it is a hand saw) You can turn the handle either direction to make the saw cut towards you or away from you. (This is important to remember because it will make the process go much smoother if you only have to push or pull the saw in one direction)

You also may need to “sharpen” the saw by running a “wire” back and forth between the two saw blades. If you don’t know what that means, don’t worry. Just make sure you do this whenever the saw starts to slow down while cutting.

(If you need to sharpen the saw, I will show you how at open houses)

Now let’s build your door frame.

Lay down some short 2×4 boards on the ground where the door will go. These boards are the “scaffolding” for your door frame and they help keep everything lined up.

Lay the door mockup on top of these 2x4s and make sure it lines up with the edges.

Using your nail gun or a hammer and nails, fasten the mockup onto the 2x4s. (Just use a few nails for now)

Take a break and let the glue dry. (Safety first! No smoking, no candlelight, keep a fire extinguisher handy, etc etc)

When it is dry, go up to the door and look at it from the inside. It should fit into your wall perfectly. (It is really starting to look like a door!)

Go outside and look at it from the outside. The bottom part of your door (The part that opens) should stick out past the bottom of the two vertical pieces.

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The top part of your door (the part with the little window) should meet the top guideline, but since your door is skewed this part actually needs to go past the top line just a little. (This is were that right angle rule from earlier comes into play)

Now take your tape measure and extend the bottom line of your door to each of the vertical pieces. Mark the bottom line of the vertical pieces (With a small dot or whatever you like) where they end. This will be the bottom edge of your door.

Now you need to do some math. (And by math I mean math) Measure the distance between your marks and then divide that number by 2. (Or just guess…

It’s your door afterall) This is the amount you need to skew the door to fit into the wall. In theory, you could just skew it a little and see how it looks. (It only needs to be off by a little bit)

(Optional: To skew the door, put a nail in the top or bottom edge of the vertical piece on the side you want to move inward. Hit it with a hammer a few times to make it bend.

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